I grew up in the United States, but for the last 11 years I have lived in Israel after moving here after meeting a man on an online game. (If you want to know the longer story you can see the “About Me” section) They have a similar holiday out here in March called Purim, but it’s about dressing up in costumes and none of the scary or cute things I think about when I think about Halloween. The witches, black cats, bats, ghost, vampires, spiders, zombies…..the list goes on!
Oh and we can’t forget about trick or treating! Without all that here, I have to make my own decorations to make it a holiday for my kids and we were missing a scarecrow! I hope you like what I’ve come up with. I looked around and didn’t see much options for a free scarecrow pattern so I hope this fills your house with what it might have been missing this Halloween. This one is going right next to the candy bowl this season!
Find more crochet stitches here on the category Amigurumi
Crochet Scarecrow – Halloween Crochet Pattern, Video Tutorial and Pictorial
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Doll size – 50 cms or 20 inches
For this project you’ll need:
HOOK: 3 mm or size C for the US
YARN: Worsted weight 4 ply yarn for the US \ 10 ply for AU
Yarn colors you will need:
Light brown for skin color
Black for shoes
White for body & socks
Blue for Jeans
Orange for Jacket
Light blue for bottom pants fold
Plus bits of yellow, green, and red or whatever colors you wish to use to make your patches.
You’ll also need:
Felt in colors black, white and dark brown
Some super glue or strong glue
Tooth pick (to apply the glue)
Fiber fill for stuffing
Paper string for the hair
The closest thing I found on Amazon to what I used is this Raffia Ribbon paper string.
Be sure to come to my Facebook page to ask questions if you get stuck.
ch = Chain
sl st = Slip Stitch
st = Stitch
sk = Skip
sc = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
sc dec = Single Crochet Decrease
* = Repeat what is in between the stars for the rest of the row
() = repeat what is in between for amount of times indicated.
See the pattern and tutorial for the Basic Amigurumi doll pattern here first. Only exception is to make the body for the doll white or off white instead of the skin color. It’s important that you don’t sew any pieces together yet.
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Pants leg – (Make two)
To start with blue yarn
Ch 31 and sl st under both loops of the first ch to form a ring.
Sc in all sts , ignore the st where you sl st connected before and sc into next st. Mark this stitch as 1st st of round. We’ll be working in one continuous row now.
Rounds 2 – 21
Sc in all 30 sts for 20 rows. Make sure on the first pant leg, that you leave a long tail when you cut your yarn. We’ll use it to sew pants closed later.
Round 22 (Attaching the pant legs)
Once you have both legs done, ch 2 and sl st on any stitch of the other pant leg. Place a marker here. Sc in next 24 sts, skip the 5 stitches from where you connected the pants the first time. You’re crocheting on the outside of the pants only, there should be 5 skipped sts in between the legs.
Round 23 (creating upper part of pants)
| sc 2 on the ch 2, sc in the sl st and in the next 24 sts | repeat one more time. (52 sts) We’ll be working in one continuous round now. Move up marker every round to help you keep track these next 3 rows.
(sc in next 5, sc inc) repeat 8 times (60 sts)
(sc in next 6, sc inc) repeat 9 times (68 sts)
(sc in next 7, sc inc) repeat 8 times (76)
Before you start next row, take the time to sew your pants closed. Create an “ I “ Shape. Take the time to hide some tails.
Rounds 27 – 29 (move up stitch marker)
sc in 76 sts.
(sc in next 7, sc dec) repeat 8 times (68)
Rounds 31 – 33
sc in 68 sts
(sc in next 6, sc dec) repeat 8 times (60 sts)
Rounds 35 – 41
sc in 60 sts
On front of pants | Front of overalls
Measure a halfway point, from the split between the pants. Mark this stitch. From this stitch you want use it to mark width of front piece. Count over 8 sts to the right and place marker. Count over 8 sts to the left of the first marker and mark that st. 17 stitches total.
Row 42 – 50
Sc in all sts 17 sts, ch 1 and turn. For 9 rows.
Back of overalls
With the back of the overalls facing you, place a marker in the middle of the pants, try to make sure it’s in the middle of the front flap as well.
Now count over 3 stitches to the right (or left) and single crochet attach your yarn. Sc in next 6 sts as well for a total of 7 sts. Ch 1 and turn
Rows 2 & 3
sc in all 7 sts, ch 1 and turn
sc in first 3 sts only, ch 1 and turn
Rows 5 – 35
sc in 3 sts, ch 1 and turn.
Cut yarn and attack it to the back, repeat what you just did for this side. Only use 3 sts, leave the 4th and middle chain alone.
Bottom fold of pants – Working in Continuous rows
Attach your new color to the bottom row of the pants, sc in all sts around.
Rounds 2 – 6 (place marker)
sc in front loop only (flo) in all sts.
After row 6 sl st in next 2 sts to create a more even ending, ch 1 and leaving a long tail for sewing, cut your yarn.
Fold up your piece and sew it using a tapestry needle.
How to make the Patches
sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Sc in 6 sts. Ch 1 turn
Rows 2 – 5
sc in all 6 sts, ch 1 and turn.
After 5th row, cut yarn. We’ll be using black to sew on the patches. If making patches for the hat, stop after 4th row.
Making the Vest
Back of vest – with orange yarn
sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all sts. Ch 1 and turn
Rows 2 – 25
sc in all sts, ch 1 and turn (30 sts)
ch 1, cut yarn
Front of vest – with orange yarn (Make 2)
sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all sts. Ch 1 and turn
Rows 2 – 10
sc in all sts, ch 1 and turn (12 sts)
sc dec , sc in next 10 (11)
Rows 12 – 14
sc in all sts (11)
sc dec , sc in next 9, sc dec (10)
Rows 16 – 18
sc in all sts (10)
sc dec, sc in 8 (9)
Rows 20 -25
sc in all sts (9)
Sew on the front pieces by using slip stitches down all 9 sts.
Sew the vest down the side, leaving some room for arm holes.
Mark down 9 rows from shoulder and place marker.
Sew your side together leaving the arm hole and then turn your piece inside out so the sewing won’t show.
Tattered look to vest arm holes
Attach your yarn on the armhole and sc around it. I got 17 sts on one arm hole and 20 sts on the other. The 17 one has 4 tattered pieces and the 20 sts gave me 5 tattered pieces, which makes it look not even giving it more of a real feel.
Ch 5, * sc in 2nd ch, HDC in 3rd ch, dc in next 2 chs, sk 2 sts and sl st in next st to anchor. Sc in next st on arm hole, then ch 5 * repeat 3 more times. Sl st and ch 1 in last st, cut yarn.
Attach your yarn to the bottom of vest and repeat rows 1 and 2 to give the bottom of the vest a tattered look too.
Create 50 sc foundation sts then sl st in beginning ch (not sc) to form a ring. Sl stitching into the ch will help even out the st.
ch 1 and sc in beginning sc. Sc in all sts (50)
sc in FLO in all sts. (50)
sc in all sts (50)
sc 9, dec – repeat 4 more times (45)
sc in all 45 sts
sc 8, dec – repeat 4 times (40)
sc in all 40 sts
sc 7, dec – repeat 4 times (35)
sc in all 35 sts
sc 6, dec – repeat 4 times (30)
sc in all 30 sts
sc 5, dec – repeat 4 times (25)
sc in all 25 sts
sc 4, dec – repeat 4 times (20)
sc in all 20 sts
sc 3, dec – repeat 4 times (15)
sc in all 15 sts
sc 2, dec – repeat 4 times (10)
sc in all 10 sts
sc 1, dec – repeat 4 times (5)
Sl st to finish closing the hole, leave enough of a tail to be able to hide it.
Sew on patches with black yarn. Make the two patches on the hat one row shorter than the ones you made for the overalls to make the patches small enough to fit on the hat.
Sewing your doll together
Here are the steps to sewing your pieces together. I hope you can understand from the pictures, if not there is a video tutorial you can watch me as I sew him together here.
First put the legs into the pants and fold back the overalls so you can see the legs popping out. The attach the legs to the body.
Then once the legs are sewn on, then pull up the pants and bring the overall straps up, be sure they are not twisted in the back. Overlap about a half an inch and sew the pieces together, add a button for more detail if you like.
Once the overalls are on, then you can use them to better gauge where to sew on your arm.
I sewed mine a bit higher that where I show in this picture, I made sure to end with my arm closer to the strap to make it look like the strap was being held up by the arm.
I placed a marker on the other side to mark where I needed to sew on the other arm. Then just put the vest on, It doesn’t need to be sewn on.
Try to align your head and body by the circle of the last rows. Once aligned count over two rows out away from the circles and start to sew your head to the body using the middle circle as a reference point, staying 2 rows away as you sew around. Once your head it attached, you can start your face. Put the hat on your doll to get a better idea where the face should start.
Sewing on the Face
You can use these pictures to help you cut out your pieces and stick your pieces on. Make sure to use your hat as a reference point as you glue on your pieces.
I cut my pieces about 3 inches long. Fold piece in half and attach your paper string to the bottom of the hat 5 rows in. Do this in each stitch around except the front of the hat. Leave a piece at the front for the face.
I attached paper string to the socks too, roll back the pants and attack the string the same way as you did the hat using every other stitch. I cut my string shorter after I attached it.
To attach your hat to your head is probably the hardest part of this doll. Take your time.
Start by grabbing the stitch above the paper yarn on the hat
Then pull a strand of hair forward and grab the stitch between the hairs to attach.
Be careful not to go into the flap, it will need to be sewn down later to hide all yellow hair connections as shown in picture below.
Find the pattern for the Lilly Doll here
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