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Crochet Halloween Scarecrow – Free Crochet Pattern

This crochet pattern shows how to turn your Basic Amigurumi Doll Body  into this cute crocheted scarecrow for a Halloween decoration! Just make the body white instead of skin color!

I grew up in the United States, but for the last 15 years I have lived in Israel after moving here after meeting a man on an online game. (If you want to know the longer story you can see the “About Me” section) They have a similar holiday out here in March called Purim, but it’s about dressing up in costumes and none of the scary or cute things I think about when I think about Halloween. The witches, black cats, bats, ghost, vampires, spiders, zombies…..the list goes on!

Oh and we can’t forget about trick or treating! Without all that here, I have to make my own decorations to make it a holiday for my kids and we were missing a scarecrow! I hope you like what I’ve come up with. I looked around and didn’t see much options for a free scarecrow pattern so I hope this fills your house with what it might have been missing this Halloween. This one is going right next to the candy bowl this season!

Enjoy this Halloween with your own little ghouls and goblins! Happy Halloween!

To find more patterns for the holidays check out the Holidays category

Be sure to sign up for my newsletter so you can always be update date with the newest free pattern releases as they come out! https://www.meladorascreations.com/sign-up-for-newsletter/

 
 

Crochet Scarecrow – Halloween Crochet Pattern

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Doll size – 50 cms or 20 inches

 

For this project you’ll need:

HOOK: 3 mm hook or size c hook for the US

YARN: Worsted weight 4 ply yarn for the US \ 10 ply for AU

 

Yarn colors you will need:

  • Light brown for skin color
  • Black for shoes
  • White for body & socks
  • Blue for Jeans
  • Orange for Jacket
  • Light blue for bottom pants fold
  • Plus bits of yellow, green, and red or whatever colors you wish to use to make your patches.
 

You’ll also need:

  • Felt in colors black, white and dark brown
  • Some super glue or strong glue
  • Tooth pick (to apply the glue)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Fiber fill for stuffing
  • 2 buttons

Paper string for the hair

The closest thing I found on Amazon to what I used is this Raffia Ribbon paper string.

 

PDF Pattern with Pictures

You can find the PDF version of my pattern with pictures on Ravlery Or my shop on Etsy. Thank you very much for all you do to support my channel.

Remember to sign up for my newsletter so you can stay up to date with my free pattern releases as they come out! https://www.meladorascreations.com/sign-up-for-newsletter/


 

Be sure to check out the shop for dolls made from this basic doll on my Ravelry and Etsy Shops. Lilly doll you can find here on Ravelry and Etsy


 

ABBREVIATIONS

(click on link to find tutorials)

ch = Chain

sl st = Slip Stitch

st = Stitch

sk = Skip

SC = Single Crochet

HDC = Half Double Crochet

DC = Double Crochet

sc dec = Single Crochet Decrease

* = Repeat what is in between the stars for the rest of the row

() = repeat what is in between for amount of times indicated.

See the pattern and tutorial for the Basic Amigurumi doll pattern here first. Only exception is to make the body for the doll white or off white instead of the skin color. It’s important that you don’t sew any pieces together yet.


 

VIDEO TUTORIAL

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The Overalls

Pants leg – (Make two)

To start with blue yarn

Ch 31 and sl st under both loops of the first ch to form a ring.

 

Round 1

Sc in all sts , ignore the st where you sl st connected before and sc into next st. Mark this stitch as 1st st of round. We’ll be working in one continuous row now.

 

Rounds 2 – 21

Sc in all 30 sts for 20 rows. Make sure on the first pant leg, that you leave a long tail when you cut your yarn. We’ll use it to sew pants closed later.

 

Round 22 (Attaching the pant legs)

Once you have both legs done, ch 2 and sl st on any stitch of the other pant leg. Place a marker here. Sc in next 24 sts, skip the 5 stitches from where you connected the pants the first time. You’re crocheting on the outside of the pants only, there should be 5 skipped sts in between the legs.

 

Round 23 (creating upper part of pants)

| sc 2 on the ch 2, sc in the sl st and in the next 24 sts | repeat one more time. (52 sts) We’ll be working in one continuous round now. Move up marker every round to help you keep track these next 3 rows.

 

Round 24

(sc in next 5, sc inc) repeat 8 times (60 sts)

 

Round 25

(sc in next 6, sc inc) repeat 9 times (68 sts)

 

Round 26

(sc in next 7, sc inc) repeat 8 times (76)

 

Before you start next row, take the time to sew your pants closed. Create an “ I “ Shape. Take the time to hide some tails.

 

Rounds 27 – 29 (move up stitch marker)

sc in 76 sts.

 

Round 30

(sc in next 7, sc dec) repeat 8 times (68)

 

Rounds 31 – 33

sc in 68 sts

 

Round 34

(sc in next 6, sc dec) repeat 8 times (60 sts)

 

Rounds 35 – 41

sc in 60 sts

 

On front of pants | Front of overalls

Measure a halfway point, from the split between the pants. Mark this stitch. From this stitch you want use it to mark width of front piece. Count over 8 sts to the right and place marker. Count over 8 sts to the left of the first marker and mark that st. — 17 stitches in total.

 

Row 42 – 50

Sc in all sts 17 sts, ch 1 and turn. For 9 rows.

 

Back of overalls

With the back of the overalls facing you, place a marker in the middle of the pants, try to make sure it’s in the middle of the front flap as well.

 

Row 1

Now count over 3 stitches to the right (or left) and single crochet attach your yarn. Sc in next 6 sts as well for a total of 7 sts. Ch 1 and turn

 

Rows 2 & 3

sc in all 7 sts, ch 1 and turn

 

Row 4

sc in first 3 sts only, ch 1 and turn

 

Rows 5 – 35

sc in 3 sts, ch 1 and turn.

Cut yarn and attack it to the back, repeat what you just did for this side. Only use 3 sts, leave the 4th and middle chain alone.

 

Bottom fold of pants – Working in Continuous rows

Round 1

Attach your new color to the bottom row of the pants, sc in all sts around.

 

Rounds 2 – 6 (place marker)

sc in front loop only (flo) in all sts.

After row 6 sl st in next 2 sts to create a more even ending, ch 1 and leaving a long tail for sewing, cut your yarn.

Fold up your piece and sew it using a tapestry needle.

 

How to make the Patches

To start

Ch 7

 

Row 1

sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Sc in 6 sts. Ch 1 turn

 

Rows 2 – 5

sc in all 6 sts, ch 1 and turn.

After 5th row, cut yarn. We’ll be using black to sew on the patches. If making patches for the hat, stop after 4th row.

 

Making the Vest

 

Back of vest – with orange yarn

To start

ch 31

 

Row 1

sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all sts. Ch 1 and turn

 

Rows 2 – 25

sc in all sts, ch 1 and turn (30 sts)

ch 1, cut yarn

 

Front of vest – with orange yarn (Make 2)

To start

ch 13

 

Row 1

sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all sts. Ch 1 and turn

 

Rows 2 – 10

sc in all sts, ch 1 and turn (12 sts)

 

Row 11

sc dec , sc in next 10 (11)

 

Rows 12 – 14

sc in all sts (11)

 

Row 15

sc dec , sc in next 9, sc dec (10)

 

Rows 16 – 18

sc in all sts (10)

 

Row 19

sc dec, sc in 8 (9)

 

Rows 20 -25

sc in all sts (9)

Sew on the front pieces by using slip stitches down all 9 sts.

Sew the vest down the side, leaving some room for arm holes.

Mark down 9 rows from shoulder and place marker.

Sew your side together leaving the arm hole and then turn your piece inside out so the sewing won’t show.

 

Tattered look to vest arm holes

Row 1

Attach your yarn on the armhole and sc around it. I got 17 sts on one arm hole and 20 sts on the other. The 17 one has 4 tattered pieces and the 20 sts gave me 5 tattered pieces, which makes it look not even giving it more of a real feel.

 

Row 2

Ch 5, * sc in 2nd ch, HDC in 3rd ch, dc in next 2 chs, sk 2 sts and sl st in next st to anchor. Sc in next st on arm hole, then ch 5 * repeat 3 more times. Sl st and ch 1 in last st, cut yarn.

Attach your yarn to the bottom of vest and repeat rows 1 and 2 to give the bottom of the vest a tattered look too.

 

The Hat

To start

Create 50 sc foundation sts then sl st in beginning ch (not sc) to form a ring. Sl stitching into the ch will help even out the st.

Round 1

ch 1 and sc in beginning sc. Sc in all sts (50)

 

Round 2

sc in FLO in all sts. (50)

 

Round 3

sc in all sts (50)

 

Round 4

sc 9, dec – repeat 4 more times (45)

 

Round 5

sc in all 45 sts

 

Round 6

sc 8, dec – repeat 4 times (40)

 

Round 7

sc in all 40 sts

 

Round 8

sc 7, dec – repeat 4 times (35)

 

Round 9

sc in all 35 sts

 

Round 10

sc 6, dec – repeat 4 times (30)

 

Round 11

sc in all 30 sts

 

Round 12

sc 5, dec – repeat 4 times (25)

 

Round 13

sc in all 25 sts

 

Round 14

sc 4, dec – repeat 4 times (20)

 

Round 15

sc in all 20 sts

 

Round 16

sc 3, dec – repeat 4 times (15)

 

Round 17

sc in all 15 sts

 

Round 18

sc 2, dec – repeat 4 times (10)

 

Round 19

sc in all 10 sts

 

Round 20

sc 1, dec – repeat 4 times (5)

Sl st to finish closing the hole, leave enough of a tail to be able to hide it.

Sew on patches with black yarn. Make the two patches on the hat one row shorter than the ones you made for the overalls to make the patches small enough to fit on the hat.

 

Sewing your doll together

Here are the steps to sewing your pieces together. I hope you can understand from the pictures, if not there is a video tutorial you can watch me as I sew him together here.

First put the legs into the pants and fold back the overalls so you can see the legs popping out. The attach the legs to the body.

Then once the legs are sewn on, then pull up the pants and bring the overall straps up, be sure they are not twisted in the back. Overlap about a half an inch and sew the pieces together, add a button for more detail if you like.

Once the overalls are on, then you can use them to better gauge where to sew on your arm.

I sewed mine a bit higher that where I show in this picture, I made sure to end with my arm closer to the strap to make it look like the strap was being held up by the arm.

I placed a marker on the other side to mark where I needed to sew on the other arm. Then just put the vest on, It doesn’t need to be sewn on.

Try to align your head and body by the circle of the last rows. Once aligned count over two rows out away from the circles and start to sew your head to the body using the middle circle as a reference point, staying 2 rows away as you sew around. Once your head it attached, you can start your face. Put the hat on your doll to get a better idea where the face should start.

 

Sewing on the Face

You can use these pictures to help you cut out your pieces and stick your pieces on. Make sure to use your hat as a reference point as you glue on your pieces.

I cut my pieces about 3 inches long. Fold piece in half and attach your paper string to the bottom of the hat 5 rows in. Do this in each stitch around except the front of the hat. Leave a piece at the front for the face.

I attached paper string to the socks too, roll back the pants and attack the string the same way as you did the hat using every other stitch. I cut my string shorter after I attached it.

To attach your hat to your head is probably the hardest part of this doll. Take your time.

Start by grabbing the stitch above the paper yarn on the hat

Then pull a strand of hair forward and grab the stitch between the hairs to attach.

Be careful not to go into the flap, it will need to be sewn down later to hide all yellow hair connections as shown in picture below.

Find the pattern for the Lilly Doll here

 
 

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