This crocheted Basket Weave Sideways crochet Beanie was created to help anyone who has trouble crocheting in the round. Create your beanie in rows instead.

 

I came up with this crochet beanie design when I was browsing Facebook and read a comment where a lady was saying that all her hats turned into a wok every time she tried to make one. She said she tried every beginner hat video she could find and just never had any luck with it. She even said when her kids see her starting a hat they’d say “Hey Mom, you making another wok for the head again?”

 

I laughed out loud at this and later on I gave it more thought, that it really sucks that some people have this issue, but they should be able to make hats too! So I thought I would try to make one using a piece of rectangle fabric. One that could be done in rows and easy enough to turn into a hat. So this is what I came up with.

 

I sure wish I knew the name of the lady who said that, but you never know what’s going to stick with you, so it’s lost, but I sure hope she see’s this and can make this one for her kids!

 

I decided on the Basket weave crochet stitch because it’s so cool looking and I thought it would look awesome even side ways! What do you think?

 

 

Find more crochet stitches here on the category Crochet Hats

 

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Crochet Sideways Beanie – Basket Weave Stitch – Free Crochet pattern

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For this project you will need:

HOOK: 5 mm hook or size H hook for the US

YARN: two colors skeins of worsted weight yarn, 4 ply US, 10 ply AU

100 grams / 3.5. oz

240 meters / 262 yards

 

Another yarn brand with color options

 

 

UPDATE! I’ve released the “Crochet Sideways Beanie – Starfish Crochet Stitch Pattern and you can find it with video tutorials too.

 

 

Tapestry Needle 

Pom Pom Maker (tutorial)

A Marker – This can be a piece of yarn, but is important to hold your piece together later.

 

 

 

ABBREVIATIONS

ch = Chain

sl st = Slip Stitch

st = Stitch

sk = Skip

dec = decrease

beg = beginning

YO = Yarn Over

FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet

BPDC = Back Post Double Crochet

SC = Single Crochet

DC = Double Crochet

SCFS = Single Crochet foundation stitch

Sc dec = single crochet decrease

DC Dec = Double Crochet Decrease
Repeat what’s in between * for rest of round.

 

 

 


Pattern with Pictures

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THE TUTORIALS:
RIGHT HANDED VERSION

 

LEFT HANDED VERSION

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We’re making the main part of the hat first.

 

TIP * One row you will go with the flow, the next row the opposite*

 

 

Row 1

scfs 20. ch 2 and turn.

 

 

 

Row 2

The ch 2 counts as the first stitch – DC in 2nd sc.

*Dc in all sc’s. * ch 2 and turn.

 

 

 

Row 3 – We’ll only be crocheting on the post’s from now on except for the beginning and ending of a row.

The ch 2 will count as the first stitch of your row.

*FPDC on the 2nd and 3rd post’s of the row. BPDC on the post’s of the next 2 sts. Repeat for the row. DC in top ch of the last ch 2 of row.

 

 

 

Row 4

The ch 2 will count as the first stitch of your row.

*FPDC on the 2nd and 3rd post’s of the row. BPDC on the post’s of the next 2 sts. Repeat for the row. DC in top ch of the last ch 2 of row.

 

 

 

Row 5

The ch 2 will count as the first stitch of your row.

*BPDC on the 2nd and 3rd post’s of the row. FPDC on the post’s of the next 2 sts. Repeat for the row. DC in top ch of the last ch 2 of row.

 

 

 

 

Row 6

The ch 2 will count as the first stitch of your row.

*BPDC on the 2nd and 3rd post’s of the row. FPDC on the post’s of the next 2 sts. Repeat for the row. DC in top ch of the last ch 2 of row.

 

 

 

Repeat rows 3 – 6 until your pieces reaches —

 

47 cms \ 18 inches (child)

50 cms \ 19 inches (Adult)

If making for a man or someone with a bigger head try 53 cms \ 20 inches. I know it’s different to think of the side in this way, but we are making the circumference first.

 

Once you have your hat big enough around, now it’s time to close our hat.

 

Chose which side of the hat you like best. I just went with the front side of this stitch, but it’s nice to know you have options eh? Hehe

 

Anyway, fold your piece in half, making sure the side you want facing is facing out. Then grab a marker and going through both of your pieces, mark these last stitches to hold them together. Makes it so much easier when your sewing to keep your piece straight.

 

Now going under both sides again attach your new color to NON marked side and start to single crochet your piece together. Keep your stitches as even as you can. Once you reach the end, you can remove your marker and turn your piece to the side and open it up. We’re going to be working on closing the top of your hat now.

 

 

 

 

 

Closing the Top of your hat

 

 

Round 1

CH 1 or CH 2 if it helps you reach the top without pulling your piece to much. SC as evenly as you can along the side stitches, just make sure you end on an even number of stitches. When you reach the end row there’s no need to sl st, just keep going, continue to row 2 when you reach your beginning st again.

 

 

 

Round 2

*sc dec, sc in next 2 sc’s * repeat for round

 

 

 

Round 3

*sc dec, sc in next st* repeat for round

 

 

 

Round 4

*sc dec all the way around* when you get to the end of your round sl st in beg sc and ch 1. Leaving a long tail for sewing, cut your yarn.

 

Thread your tapestry needle and feed it through to the inside of your hat. Flip your hat inside out so that your sewing on the inside of your hat and start weaving your needle through the stitches creating a pulley effect. Once you’ve weaved through all your stitches, pull the yarn to close the hole, then insert your needle down a few stitches away from the hole and pull your yarn through, but not all the way. Use this to tie a know to secure the hole. Cut your yarn leaving a small tail and weave in all your ends.

 

Turn your hat back to the front side again.

 

Flip your hat to the bottom, we’re Making the Rim of the hat now.

 

 

 

 

Making the Rim

 

 

Round 1

Attach your new color using a sc attachment and sc as evenly as you can using the side stitches. Don’t add more stitches here, just use the natural holes in the sides to create your sc’s. Make sure you end on an even number of stitches.

 

Once you reach the beginning again and you’ve counted your stitches to make sure you have an even number then you want to sl st in beg st and ch 2.

 

 

 

Round 2

DC Dec the DC in next * repeat for round. Sl st in beg st. Again make sure you end on an even number of stitches, be sure to count the beg ch 2 as a stitch.

 

 

 

Round 3

CH 2 and FPDC on post of following DC, then BPDC on the next post. Alternate your FPDC’s and BDPC’s all the way around until you reach your beg st.

 

Repeat round 3 two more times (for rows 4 and 5)

after row 5, sl st to beg st, ch 1 and leaving a small tail, cut your yarn. Work in ends.

 

 

 

This is optional, but I like to use my main color and embroider around the first row of the rim. It’s essentially slip stitching, just do it very loosely and evenly so not to shrink the size of the hat any!

 

 

 

 

Create a Pom Pom with the same second color and sew to the top of your hat making sure to sew it all the way around the top for a good fit so that your ball won’t wobble.

 

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