This Thick Mesh Beanie Crocheted beanie is screaming for color! This stitch was made for variegated yarn or for using up scrap yarn. The colors bleed into each other creating a thick material that can even be used as a pot holder. I actually made a pattern on this which you can find here Thick Mesh Potholder.
I added baby size to adult so feel free to make one for all your family.
Find more Beanie patterns here Crochet Hats
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Thick Mesh Beanie – Free Crochet Pattern
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For this project you’ll need:
YARN: 1 skein of worsted weight yarn, 4 ply US, 10 ply AU
100 grams / 3.5. oz
240 meters / 262 yards
Another yarn brand with color options
ch = Chain
sl st = Slip Stitch
st = Stitch
sk = Skip
YO = Yarn Over
sc = Single Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
* = Repeat what is in between the stars for the rest of the row
PDF Pattern with Pictures
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RIGHT HANDED VERSION
LEFT HANDED VERSION
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This stitch is done in multiples of 2
Ch 3 and sl st into beginning ch to form a ring.
Ch 2 and DC 11 into center of ring. Sl st in top of beginning ch 2 to end the round. (12 sts)
Ch 2 & DC into same stitch. DC 2 into all sts around. sl st in top of beginning ch 2 to end the round. (24 sts)
Ch 2, * DC 2 into next st, DC into next st * sl st in top of beginning ch 2 to end the round. (36 sts) BABY SIZE you are done increasing. Move down to Thick Mesh Round
Ch 2, DC into the next st, DC 2 into next st * DC 1 into next two sts, DC 2 into next st * sl st in top of beginning ch 2 to end the round. (48 sts) TODDLER \ CHILD SIZE you are done increasing. Move down to Thick Mesh Round
Ch 2, DC into the next 2 sts, DC 2 into next st * DC 1 into next three sts, DC 2 into next st * sl st in top of beginning ch 2 to end the round. (60 sts)
NOTE FOR ADULT SIZE… If you find your hat is to small for an adult you can always do one more row of increases, but to make sure you stay a solid number, stop increasing during the row once you reach 70 sts.
ch 1 and DC in beginning stitch *ch 1, skip a st, DC into next st * repeat for round, no need to ch 1 after the last dc of the round, just sl st in beginning dc to end round. (The sl st will count as the ch 1)
ch 3 and * DC in space to the left of DC, two rows down and ch 1* repeat for round, no need to ch 1 after the last dc of the round, just sl st in beginning dc to end round.
ch 3 and * DC in space to the left of DC, two rows down and ch 1* repeat for round, sl st in beginning dc. Be sure when starting a row you find that little opening to the left of your stitch
Rounds 9 – 18
repeat round 8 for 9 rounds.
repeat round 13,
Ch 2, only use sc, ch 1 instead of dc, ch 1. This will make your row flatter.
ch 2, * dc 1 in all sts, the dc’s and the ch spaces. The ch spaces may be a bit hard to get your hook in, just take your time.
The amount of stitches you had when you stopped increasing (36,48,60) you should also have at the end of this round.
ch 2, FPDC on the ch 2 from last round *BPDC on post of next st, FPDC on post of next stitch * repeat for round, sl st in beg FPDC
ch 2 & FPDC on 1st FPDC, *BPDC on next BPDC, FPDC on next FPDC * repeat for round, sl st in beginning FPDC.
repeat round 22, sl st & ch 1, cut your yarn. Hide tail.
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