I’ve decided to try out a yarn cake! I’ve seen pictures of other’s crochet projects when they used a yarn cake and I thought the color changes were beautiful! They have them at my local yarn store where I get most of my yarn but they never really had any colors that caught my eye. Plus it would be a big investment because each Yarn cake is 1000 meters and cost 75 shekels! (That’s roughly 21 dollars) For just one skein! But I suppose that’s why they call it a “cake” and not a “skein”, it’s waaay more than a skein.
When I shared pictures of the start of this shawl on Facebook, a nice lady gave me a tip to put a yarn ball in the center of the cake before you store it. It will prevent the cake from collapsing.
I think it worked up very nicely and it’s such an easy 3 row repeat pattern! My hubby told me that it looked like a butterfly, so I’m calling this style of shawl “a butterfly shawl” and this is the first butterfly shawl I’m making. I sure would like to make more in this style!
V stitch Butterfly Shawl – Free Crochet Pattern & Tutorials
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For this project you will need:
YARN: I used a Yarn cake from YarnArt “Flowers” yarn, color 268
Content: 55% Organic Cotton 45% Anti Pilling Acrylic
- Ball Weight: 250 g (8.8 oz)
- Yarn Weight: 1 : Fingering
- Yarn Length: 1000 m (1093 yd)
My finished shawl measured 170 cms wide & 65 cms tall. Or 67 inches wide and 25 inches tall
ch = Chain
sl st = Slip Stitch
st = Stitch
sk = Skip
dec = decrease
beg = beginning
YO = Yarn Over BPDC =
FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC = Back Post Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
V Stitch – 3 types in this pattern
Repeat what’s in between * for rest of round.
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RIGHT HANDED VERSION
LEFT HANDED VERSION
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Ch 3 and DC 7 into beg ch (8 sts) ch 2 & turn
DC 2 into same ch stitch. This will give you 3 sts in this first stitch because the ch 2 counts as a st. * Dc 2 into all sts * ch 2 & turn (17 sts)
ch 2 and FPDC onto the post of the ending DC from the previous row, * sk a st, V st (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into next stitch, sk a st, FPDC onto post of DC. * repeat for row. DC in the ending ch 2. ch 2 & turn. You should have 4 sections divided off now.
NOTE: All your FPDC’s from last row are called BPDC for this row because you will be crocheting them from the other side. This leaves all the texture on one side of the shawl.
ch 2 and BPDC onto the first BPDC of the previous row * skip over to the center of your V st and crochet and (Dc 3, ch 1, Dc 3) into it.
Make note you Dc 3 instead of 2 for this row. BPDC onto the next BPDC * repeat for row. Sl st in the beg BPDC to end your row.
Row 5 – Start of Repeat –
ch 2 and FPDC onto the first FPDC of the row. We are now going to be working with the 3 DC’s that we did for our last V stitch.
*Using the middle DC, V stitch (Dc 1, ch 1, Dc 1) into it. Then move over to what I’m going to be calling a “Peak stitch” and V stitch (DC 1, ch 1, DC 1)
Once again using the middle DC, V stitch (Dc 1, ch 1, Dc 1) into it. Then FPDC onto the FPDC* repeat for row. DC in ending ch 2 to end your row. Ch 2 & turn.
Row 6 – 2nd row of repeat –
ch 2 and BPDC onto the first BPDC of the row. *V stitch (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the V stitch(es) when you come up to your Peak Stitch V stitch by DC 2, ch 1, DC 2. Then V stitch into your V stitch(es) (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1). Then BPDC on your BPDC* repeat for row. DC in ending ch 2 to end your row. Ch 2 & turn.
Row 7 – last row of repeat
ch 2 and FPDC onto the first FPDC of the row. *V stitch (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the V stitch(es) when you come up to your Peak Stitch V stitch by DC 3, ch 1, DC 3. Then V stitch into your V stitch(es) (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1). Then FPDC on your FPDC* repeat for row. DC in ending ch 2 to end your row. Ch 2 & turn.
Repeat rows 5 – 7
You will always be adding v stitches as you go but you will always work your Peak stitches and FPDC\BPDC the same. The only thing that changes in the pattern is the amount of V stitches you will have between each peak.
TIP: at some point on the repeat of row 5 that leaves the whole row just V stitches, it can be hard when doing the repeat of row 6 to see the peak stitches so I recommend putting a marker to mark the peaks on the repeat of row 5, so when you start the repeat of row 6 you will know where your peak stitches are without having to stress about it. Makes the shawl even more mindless to do! Which I love 🙂
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