Simple Pull Over Crochet Sweater tutorial that teaches you how to make this very simple beginner sweater. This tutorial is for those who already know how to crochet and wants to make there first sweater!

Find more crochet stitches here on the category Crochet Stitches

Other Patterns that use this stitch:

The Grit Stitch

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Grit Stitch Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

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For this Grit Stitch Sweater Project you will need:

HOOKS: 5 mm hook or size H hook for the US and a 6 mm hook or J hook

YARN: 3 skein of yarn, 4 ply US, 10 ply AU

my skeins are

100 grams / 3.5. oz

250 meters / 273 yards

Tapestry needle, and 2 stitch markers

Another yarn brand with color options

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This stitch is done in Multiples of 2

This is child size. It fit my 4 year old as well as my 6 year old.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch = Chain

sl st = Slip Stitch

st = Stitch

sk = Skip

beg = beginning

SC = Single Crochet

DC = Double Crochet

HDC = Half Double Crochet

Repeat what’s in between * for rest of round.

THE TUTORIALS:
RIGHT HANDED VERSION

PART 1

PART 2

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LEFT HANDED VERSION

PART 1

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PART 2

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BACK OF SWEATER

To Start – USE THE 5 mm / H hook

Ch 42 – ( switch your hook size now )

Row 1 – Change to 6 mm / J hook

sc in all sts. Ch 1 and turn (41)

Row 2

hdc in first stitch and * sk a st, sc and dc into next stitch. * repeat. Hdc in final stitch of row. Ch 1 and turn. (41)

Row 3

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (41)

Rows 4 – 46

Repeat row 3 until you have 46 rows total. Then on the 46^th row, ch 1 and cut yarn, leave enough of a tail to be worked in with a tapestry needle.

FRONT OF SWEATER

Rows are done the same way as back of sweater, only difference is you stop at row 36 and mark your stitches. 14 stitches from each corner leaving 12 stitches in the middle section for the neck.

Row 37

Then connect your yarn and crochet a HDC in the first stitch and * skip next stitch, sc and dc into next stitch * repeat until marker. HDC into marker space. Remove marker. Ch 1

Rows 38 – 42

HDC in the first stitch and * skip next stitch, sc and dc into next stitch * repeat HDC into marker space. Remove marker. Ch 1

SLEEVES – MAKE TWO

To Start – USING 5 mm / H hook

ch 31

Row 1 – CHANGE TO 6 mm / J hook

sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in all sts (30)

Row 2

hdc in first stitch and * sk a st, sc and dc into next stitch. * repeat. Hdc in final stitch of row. Ch 1 and turn. (30)

Rows 3 – 5

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (30)

Row 6

hdc TWO in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (31)

Row 7

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat.

The last 2 HDC’s of the roware worked as follows:

sc and dc into first HDC then HDC in final HDC. Place a marker here to mark row 7 to help you see where you last increases encase you need to sit down your project. (32)

Rows 8 – 12

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (32)

Row 13

hdc TWO in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (33)

Row 14

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat.

The last 2 HDC’s of row are worked as follows:

sc and dc into first HDC then HDC in final HDC. Place a marker here to mark row 7 to help you see where you last increases encase you need to sit down your project. (34)

Rows 15 – 38

hdc in first stitch, skip the first stitch, which is the DC and work a * sc and dc into following sc, skip next stitch * repeat. HDC in final stitch. (34)

after round 38, ch 1 and cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to be worked in with a tapestry needle.

SEWING YOUR PIECES TOGETHER

Take your Back and Front pieces and put them together Right side facing. You can tell which is the right side by looking at the first row of single crochets.

Line the corners up and use a marker to hold them in place so you can slip stitch the 14 stitches that you already have marked. Going through one stitch on the front and it’s equal on the back of the sweater. When done with these 14 stitches Ch 1 and cut yarn.

Move over to your next set of 14 marked stitches and repeat.

Grab your arms now and fold the arm in half the long way, making sure the right side is on the inside. Attach your yarn on the thicker part of the arm and Slip stitch sew it closed. Take your time and use markers to help you keep your arm aligned as you slip stitch down the side. Ch 1 and cut your yarn.

Making sure both your body piece and arm piece is facing on the wrong side. Make sure the stitches of the arm is pointing down. And using your markers, attach the top shoulder and the arm together, and the bottom of the arm to the piece as well. You are only doing one side of the arm here. Look at the pictures below to get the idea I mean.

Attach your yarn at the marker under the arm and make your way to your other marker at the shoulder. Now remove the markers and place one at the bottom of the sleeve under the arm again. Now sew this part of the arm to the other body piece. To complete the circle. Then continue slip stitching down the sweater to close it. Repeat for other arm as well.

MAKING THE NECK

Round 1

Attach your yarn to the back of the neck. Sc in first stitch and in all stitches around. Sl st in beg stitch. Ch 2

Round 2

dc in all stitches around. Sl st into beginning st. ch 1

Round 3

sc into all stitches around, cut yarn, leave a tail to be worked in.

Work in all your tails.

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