I just released the V stitch Butterfly Shawl, and now I’m starting on my second yarn cake! I’m trying my hand at another “Butterfly” style shawl.
Something funny happened when I was crocheting it. When I showed my husband the design he said it looked more like a bat. Then my daughter said it’s a “Bat-terfly” shawl! So this shawl got it’s name before it got very big! As you can see in the picture below, it does look like a bat or moth! But Moth-erfly didn’t sound as good LOL
About the Yarn cake I used is 1000 meters and this one cost 79 shekels or 22 dollars. I bought mine at a my local yarn store.
A Tip to help you store your Yarn Cake after it starts to collapse. Put a yarn ball in the center of the cake before you store it. It will prevent the cake from collapsing.
I decided to add more style to this one, so I added a flap at the top. This makes the shoulders warmer and adds style. Also the flap can be pulled up around the neck to become a makeshift scarf to keep the neck warmer, also can be pulled above the head to add warmth to the head. Adjust it however you want!
Bat-terfly Shawl – Free Crochet Pattern & Tutorials
This page contains affiliate links
For this project you will need:
HOOK: 4 mm hook or size G hook for the US
YARN: I used a Yarn cake from YarnArt cake
Content: 55% Organic Cotton 45% Anti Pilling Acrylic
- Ball Weight: 250 g (8.8 oz)
- Yarn Weight: Fingering
- Yarn Length: 1000 m (1093 yd)
YARN: I used a Yarn cake from YarnArt “Flowers” yarn, color 263
My finished shawl measured 70 cms wide & 75 cms tall. Or 27 inches wide and 30 inches tall
ch = Chain
sl st = Slip Stitch
st = Stitch
sk = Skip
beg = beginning
YO = Yarn Over BPDC =
DC = Double Crochet
V Stitch – Dc 1, ch 1, Dc 1
Peak Stitches – DC 3, ch 1, DC 3
Repeat what’s in between * for rest of round.
Most of my patterns are free on my site so I am very honored if you wanted to support my channel by buying a PDF version of my pattern with pictures on Ravlery Or my shop on Etsy. Thank you very much!
Be sure to come to my Facebook page to ask questions if you get stuck.
RIGHT HANDED VERSION
LEFT HANDED VERSION
If you haven’t yet, take a moment to subscribe to my videos on YouTube to have easy access to all my videos and playlist
Ch 3 and DC 7 into beg ch (8 sts) ch 2 & turn
DC 1 into beg stitch. * Dc 2 into all sts * ch 2 & turn (16 sts)
V st in 2nd st (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) * sk a st, create a small peak stitch by DC 2, ch 1, dc 2 in next st. Sk a st. V st in next st (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) * Dc in ending ch 2. Ch 2 and Turn
V stitch in V stitch, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) Then we create our first peak stitch in our small peak st, *DC 3, ch 1, DC 3. Then V stitch in next V st. * dc in ending ch 2. Ch 2 and turn
Note that ALL V stitches this row will be DC 1, Ch 1, DC 1.* V stitch in V st. Now we’re going to move over to our 3 DC’s that are part of our peak st. *Using the middle DC, V stitch (Dc 1, ch 1, Dc 1) into it. Then move over to what I’m going to be calling a “Peak stitch” and V stitch (DC 1, ch 1, DC 1)
Once again using the middle DC, V stitch (Dc 1, ch 1, Dc 1) into it. * DC in ending ch 2 to end your row. Ch 2 & turn.
From now on all Peak stitches will be done as a DC 3, ch 1, DC 3
V st in your next 2 V sts, * which brings you to your peak st so DC 3, ch 1, DC 3 in there. V st in the next 3 V sts, * repeat for row. At end of row. V st in your last 2 remaining V sts. DC in ending ch 2 to end your row. Ch 2 & turn.
V st in your next 2 V sts * sk a st, DC 1 into the next 2 DC’s, skip last DC and Create a peak st in your peak st. sk 1st DC and DC 1 into the next 2 DC’s. V st into the next 3 V sts. * repeat for row. DC in ending ch 2. Ch 2 and turn.
V st in first 2 V sts. V stitch using the space in between the 2 DC’s to create your 3rd V st.
*sk a st & DC in next 3 sts. Then Peak st in your Peak st. Skip a st and DC in next 3 sts. Skip last DC and V sts in next 3 V sts * repeat for row. At end of row. V st in the space between your 2 DC’s like you did at the beginning of row, to create your 3rd V st on this side. DC in ending ch 2 to end row. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 9 – Repeat row (with minor changes, see end of row for details)
V st into your 3 V sts. SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 4 Sts, SKIP last DC, then create your peak st in your peak st. * SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 4 Sts, SKIP last DC, then create your peak st in your peak st, SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 4 Sts. V st in next 3 V sts* repeat for row until you reach end of row. You will always have 1 DC less at beginning and end of your rows. So skip 1 DC and DC in next 3 DC’s, SKIP last DC and V st in your last 3 V sts. DC in ending ch 2 to end row. CH 2 and turn.
This will be your repeat row for the rest of your shawl. You will only be changing the amount of DC’s that you will crochet before reaching your peak st.
For example for row 10
V st into your 3 V sts. SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 5 Sts, SKIP last DC, then create your peak st in your peak st. * SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 5 Sts, SKIP last DC, then create your peak st in your peak st, SKIP 1st DC, DC in next 5 Sts. V st in next 3 V sts * repeat for row until you reach end of row. DC in ending ch 2 to end row. CH 2 and turn.
The pattern repeats after this row.
You’re just adding 1 more DC to all the area’s. The pattern stays the same. You will always skip the 1st and last DC of a set before and after your peak sts.
V sts are always worked the same.
Repeat the pattern until row 23 if you want to create the flap. If not then just continue as you were. But if you want the flap then when you just finished row 22 cut your yarn leaving a small tail that can be hidden later. Be sure to do this every time you cut your yarn or add your yarn back.
Row 1 of flap
Place a marker in the last st of row so you don’t loose it. We’re using the stitches on top now.
DC in first st. Then DC 2 into all sts across the top.
When your reach center wheel of row. DC 2 in sts before center st, DC 2 in Center st, DC 2 after center st and continue to put 2 dc’s in all sts.
Once you reach the end of row, ch 2 and turn.
DC into the space between your Ending ch 2 and 1 DC to create your first V st. * Skip next space and DC 2 in next space in between 2 dc’s. * Be sure NOT to ch 1 just DC 2 in the spaces in between DC’s.
There is no set pattern as to how many rows you need to do. It depends on your color changes and when you want to add color to the flap.
The first time I had a lot of grey so I did 6 rows with that. But after that I added 2 to 3 rows every color change.
When you’re ready to add your yarn back to your shawl, be sure to add it where you cut it so you can just turn and continue as before. Be sure to leave a tail before doing your DC attachment to the ending ch 2.
BE CAREFUL: Be careful when you get to the end of this 1st row. Be sure to DC in ending ch 2. Don’t keep crocheting over the flap! Ch 2 and turn. Repeat row 9 with changes in the number of DC’s as you were doing before.
IMPORTANT TIP: At any time if your points start to bulge feel free to add a decrease or two on that row just to get you back on track.
Hide all your tails at the end of creating your shawl. Your tails can help you keep track of color change rows. I had 27 rows total for my flap. But feel free to add more or less! Good luck and enjoy!
This pattern is brought to you by www.meladorascreations.com
You can sell any item made from this pattern and link back to my page or videos, but you do not have permission to copy and paste my pattern anywhere online. ©Copyright 2019, All Rights Reserved
~~~~~~~~~PLEASE READ BELOW!~~~~~~~~~~
If you are a fan of my work, please help me to improve it by becoming a patron.